- Do sit stays on a soft, comfortable couch or bed.
- Have your dog do a sit stay while playing fetch with another dog.
- Teach your dog to release on a verbal "Okay" signal only. Do not
let your dog release on just a hand signal. It is too easy for them
to back-chain, and start releasing themselves on the physical
signal that precedes your hand signal, for example, a turn of your
head.
- Practice fooling your dog with a similar verbal release word,
such as "Ohio." If he breaks, put him back in a sit, without saying
anything. Once he is reliable with this, practice doing both a
fake release word, like "Ohio," along with a hand signal at the same
time.
- Attach a 6 foot leash to your dog's buckle collar. Tell your dog
to stay, and walk to the end of the leash. Apply pressure to the
leash, forcing the dog to brace himself to stay. Release you dog
towards you. Once your dog is successful with this, do the same
exercise with a much longer leash, so you can have a longer "lead out."
- Do the above exercise right before you go in the ring, or right
after you exit the ring. That way they might be revved up, like
they would be in the ring.
- Experiment with starting from a sit or a down at the start line. See
if your dog is better at one than the other. Whichever position you
choose, the dog should not move until you release him.
- Consider pulling your dog off course if they break the start line
before you release them. If the dog's reward is doing agility, then
it doesn't get its reward if it breaks the start line. If you do
this, you must be consistent and do it every time, or else you are
only confusing your dog. Matches are a less expensive way to train
this than trials.
- When you leave your dog at the start line, walk confidently away from
them. Do not "tip toe" out, hoping your dog won't break - it'll
probably just excite your dog more.
- I have found that sternly yelling "stay" at my dog does not work. It
only makes him that more excited.